Luthy Botanical Garden would like to be your "come to" resource for all your plant-related questions and problems. Visit this site often for new and seasonal information to help you in your garden and landscaping efforts. Click on the articles or websites below for information or professional assistance in areas that relate to your specific needs.

Pro Hort is an educational committee of the Illinois Green Industry Association dedicated to bringing educational opportunities to members of the horticulture profession in Illinois. Pro Hort offers something for everyone! Link to their web site by clicking on www.illinoisgreen.net/prohort.html .

Garden Calendar

January

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: School Programs, Garden Tours
• Monitor plants for signs of damage from animals, ice, snow or wind. Brush snow off evergreen shrubs and trees. Be careful in removing snow and ice from trees and shrubs; you may cause damage. While physical barriers of chicken wire or hardware cloth can be used to protect plants from rabbit and deer damage.
• If temperatures are mild for a few days, spray sensitive evergreens, especially broadleaf evergreens with anti-desiccant to prevent winter burn.
• Prune shade and ornamental trees (except maple, birch and walnut). Heavy pruning is best done in late winter or early spring immediately before bud break. Another time to prune flowering trees and shrubs is immediately after they flower; this preserves the spring floral display. Oak trees must be pruned in dormant months to minimize risk of oak wilt disease. Immediately prune back any branches damaged by snow and ice.
• Continue to keep the garden tidy by removing any broken or fallen branches from the yard. If small plants have heaved out of the ground, gently press them back with your hands.
• Recycle your Christmas tree. Use boughs and greens as a mulch for evergreen or shallow rooted perennials. Decorate it with bird seed and suet ornaments for winter birds or place it near a birdfeeder as a windbreak.
• Remember to check on stored dahlia, canna, and gladiola to make sure they are not rotting or drying out. Keep them stored at temperatures between 35 and 50 degrees.
• Keep salt away from planting beds and consider using potassium or calcium based de-icing products on walkways rather than rock salt. If possible minimize the use of salt by broadcasting sand or ashes on slippery surfaces. Always shovel snow before using any de-icing product. If necessary, construct burlap screening supported by wooden stakes to protect evergreens in path of salt spray.
• Continue to feed birds and, if possible, provide water and cover for them.
• Revise garden and perennial border layouts.
  

February

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: Garden Design Classes, Wine & Roses Concert, School Programs, Garden Tours
• Monitor plants for signs of damage from animals, ice, snow or wind. Brush snow off evergreen shrubs and trees. Be careful in removing snow and ice from trees and shrubs; you may cause damage. While physical barriers of chicken wire or hardware cloth can be used to protect plants from rabbit and deer damage.
• Prune large woody plants, fruit trees, grapes and bramble fruits. To avoid sacrificing spring flower display, prune flowering trees and shrubs immediately after they bloom in spring.
• Check garden beds to be sure plants have not heaved out of the ground from freeze-thaw-freeze cycles. Gently press the crowns of perennials back into the ground.
• In a vase of water, force cuttings of crabapple, flowering cherry, flowering pear, serviceberry, flowering quince, forsythia, redbud, lilac and pussy willow; keep in a cool room with fresh water.
• Feed birds and, if possible, provide water and cover for them.
• Revise garden and perennial border layouts.
• Look for the early bulbs like winter aconite, snowdrops and glory-of-the-snow.

March

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: Lily Show (can vary), School Programs, Garden Tours
• Fertilize trees and shrubs if they have shown signs that they could use it. The signs include poor appearance or leaf color, failure to completely fruit or flower or stunted growth. Use a slow-release granular fertilizer or an organic product and water in well.
• Just before buds open, spray dormant oil for scale and over-wintering insects. Watch weather conditions for appropriate window to spray; temperature must be at least 40 degrees with no chance of freezing or rain within the following 24 hours.
• Plant trees and shrubs before they break bud and when soil conditions permit.
• Remove mulch from roses, prune just before buds break. Prune out dried, darkened and broken canes and any dead tips. Top-dress soil around roses with a 6-2-0, organic, slow-release fertilizer such as Milorganite.
• Cut back all perennials and ornamental grasses that were left standing for winter interest. As days warm up, gradually pull back mulch from around perennial crowns. Gently press back any perennials that heaved out of the ground over the winter.
• Sow seeds indoors.
• Sow grass seed in late March or early April, incorporating seed starter fertilizer. Just before forsythias bloom and before weeds germinate in the late March/early April, the temperatures are ideal to apply crabgrass preventer/lawn food. Avoid treating areas to be seeded.
• Feed birds and, if possible, provide water and cover for them.
• Look for the early bulbs like winter aconite, snowdrops and glory-of-the-snow.

April

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: Lily Show, Spring Plant Sale, School Programs, Garden Tours
• Start to monitor plantings to minimize damage from pests and diseases.
• Start planting new trees and shrubs.
• Apply soil amendments and fertilizers to beds. Mulch or compost beds to conserve moisture and discourage weeds. Weed preventer may be necessary. Avoid disturbing late emerging perennials.
• Divide and move perennials. Work in compost, bone meal and soil amendments.
• Remove any winter protection.
• When soil temperatures are consistently in the 50s, sow seeds of cool-season vegetables directly into the garden. Cool-season vegetables that can be direct-seeded include: the root crops of beets, carrots, radishes, parsnips and turnips; the leaf crops of chard, loose-leaf lettuces, spinach, mesclun mix, mustard and collard greens, and kale. Plant small transplants of asparagus, early potatoes, broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, radish, mustard, onions, peas, rhubarb, spinach, turnips, cauliflower, carrots and all other cool-season crops as weather permits.
• Plant cool-season annuals that tolerate a light frost can be planted early in the month after being hardened off. These include snapdragons, sweet peas, cape daisies, pansies and violets.
• Fertilize spring-flowering bulbs with a granular 5-10-5 or 10-10-10 mix as new green growth emerges or when they finish flowering. Remove spent flowers but allow foliage to wither completely before removing.
• Begin mowing lawn if necessary.
• Feed birds

May

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: Mother’s Day Orchid Show, School Programs, Garden Tours
• Monitor plantings to minimize damage from pests and diseases. Succulent new green growth is particularly susceptible to aphid attack. Monitor newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials for signs of aphids (curled, distorted tip growth). Spray strong stream of water on damaged foliage to remove pests.
• Continue planting new trees, shrubs and perennials.
• Prune spring flowering trees and shrubs after they finish flowering.
• Weed beds and plantings. Mulch beds after thoroughly weeding and watering. Mulch conserves moisture, protects the roots of plants and helps keep weeds down.
• Stake tall and heavy perennials.
• Plant annual flowers but be ready to cover them if there is a late frost
• Plant summer and fall-flowering bulbs such as Asiatic and Oriental lilies, dahlias, cannas, caladium, crocosmia, freesia, gladioli and calla lilies. Let spring bulb foliage yellow and wither before removal.
• Plant corn, snap beans, summer squash and New Zealand spinach in mid-May. Thin carrot, beet and lettuce seedlings. Harvest asparagus, rhubarb, green onions, lettuce and radishes.
• Mow lawn at 2-2.5 inches, Leave grass clippings on the lawn to return nutrients to the soil, or add them to compost heap. If necessary, apply a second application of lawn fertilizer, and spot treat with broadleaf weed control.

June

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: Plant Fest, Rhapsody in Bloom Art Festival, Garden Tours
• Monitor plantings to minimize damage from pests and diseases. Succulent new green growth is particularly susceptible to aphid attack. Monitor newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials for signs of aphids — curled, distorted tip growth. Spray strong stream of water on damaged foliage to remove pests. Don’t use strong chemicals if ladybugs are present since they are predators of aphids.
• Continue planting new trees and shrubs.
• Continue pruning spring-flowering shrubs after they flower and small evergreens, such as boxwood or yew, can be lightly pruned after the new growth fills in. Prune spent flower heads from shrubs, perennials and annuals to encourage growth and continued bloom.
• Continue weeding beds and plantings. Mulch beds after thoroughly weeding and watering. Mulch conserves moisture, protects the roots of plants and helps keep weeds down.
• Fertilize roses monthly and watch for disease and insects. Deadhead roses as flowers fade. Many shrub roses are self-cleaning and don’t require deadheading; when in doubt, lightly prune old blossoms to keep plant looking attractive.
• Pinch mums and asters till early July.
• Allow bulb foliage to ripen and whither before removal.
• Fertilizer annual flowers and vegetables
• Mulch vegetable garden with straw to retain moisture.
• Stake or cage tomatoes as they begin to grow. Harvest peas, raspberries and all cool-season lettuces and vegetables as they ripen. Sow seeds of pumpkins corn, bush beans and cabbage for an early fall harvest.
• Plant dill or fennel to attract swallowtail butterflies to lay their eggs. Watch for tiny eggs to develop into plump caterpillars that will feed on the foliage before pupating into butterflies.
• Pinch new top growth of herbs to keep them from flowering; this will intensify the oils and flavor in the foliage. Snip or cut off sprigs of herbs to use in cooking. Portions of fresh herbs can be cut, frozen or dried during summer to encourage plant to produce more growth.
• Seed bare areas of lawn with appropriate grass seed mix and starter fertilizer. Keep area moist until seeds germinate. Do not mow for several weeks as new grass thickens up.
• Monitor lawn for weeds. Mow lawn at 2-2.5 inches, Leave grass clippings on the lawn to return nutrients to the soil, or add them to the compost. Water lawns, if necessary and avoid watering midday or on windy days. Grass can go dormant for several weeks in intense heat and requires only 1 inch of water per week to remain alive.

July

• Garden Tours
• Monitor plantings to minimize damage from pests and diseases. Avoid strong pesticides until insects are correctly identified. Many, like aphids, will go away with a strong stream of water from a hose. Additionally, aphids have many natural enemies and are rarely cause for harsh pesticides.
• Continue weeding beds and plantings; the hot weather will accelerate weed growth.
• Water plantings as needed during times of extreme heat or drought.
• Prune hedges and summer flowering shrubs after flowering. Renovate overgrown shrubs including redtwig dogwood, lilac and forsythia by removing one-third of the oldest canes. Prune out weak, green but very fast-growing water sprouts that grow vertically from branches of fruit and ornamental trees.
• Fertilize roses for the final time at the end of the month; do not fertilize after August 1. Continue to deadhead roses by cutting flowers back to the first set of five leaflets.
• Enjoy cut garden flowers from the garden; some of the flowers can be dried. To promote a second, late-summer flower show, cut back, shear or remove flower spikes from the following early blooming perennials: catmint, geraniums, salvia and delphiniums.
• Stake taller perennials, if necessary.
• Annuals in containers and hanging baskets may require daily watering during hot or windy weather. Continue to fertilize container plants with half-strength liquid fertilizer, but avoid applying in the heat of the day or during droughts and always water plants before fertilizing.
• Continue to harvest herbs to use fresh or dry for later use. Pinch off developing flowers to retain essential oils and flavor in the plants’ foliage.
• Monitor tomatoes during hot weather. Tomatoes appreciate an even supply of moisture rather than a heavy soaking and then a drought. Straw mulch is helpful in these beds.
• Seeds for fall crops may be sown toward the end of the month. These include beans, broccoli, spinach, cool-season lettuce crops and cabbages.
• Monitor all plants for insects; hand-remove large insects such as tomato hornworms and caterpillars.
• Harvest onions and garlic as they are ready and begin the drying process.
• Keep the lawn well watered during times of heat or drought and raise mower height to 3-4" during dry weather.
• Do not fertilize lawns in summer. Early fall is the best time to apply a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer. During drought or times of water conservation, turf will go dormant, but the grass plants’ crowns will remain alive with only 1 inch of water per week. Mow grass higher, at 2.5-3”, in hot summer. Grass clippings can be left on the lawn and raked to avoid clumping. Avoid using herbicides in hot weather. Always read directions carefully. Pull out annual weeds, such as crabgrass, before they go to seed.

August

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: Rhythm in the Rainforest Concert, School Programs, Garden Tours
• Monitor plantings to minimize damage from pests and diseases. Succulent new growth is often the first area to be attacked by insects. Aphids can easily be hosed off foliage. Many sucking, piercing and chewing insects will finish feeding this month, leaving cosmetic damage but nothing serious enough to warrant chemical control.
• Continue weeding beds and plantings; the hot weather will accelerate weed growth.
• Water plantings as needed during times of extreme heat or drought. Annuals in containers and hanging baskets may require daily watering during hot or windy weather. Continue to fertilize container plants with half-strength liquid fertilizer, but avoid applying in the heat of the day or during droughts and always water plants before fertilizing.
• Pruning is generally not advised this month, with the exception of shrubs that have just finished flowering which are pruned immediately following flowering.
• Continue to deadhead annuals and perennials to encourage additional flowers. Cut and dry straw flowers and everlastings.
• Continue to harvest herbs to use fresh or dry for later use. Pinch off developing flowers to retain essential oils and flavor in the plants’ foliage.
• Plant colorful chrysanthemum, aster, ornamental cabbage, kale, pansy or other fall-flowering plants to provide fall color. Often greenhouse-grown mums are not hardy and will not survive the winter; however, the earlier a mum is planted in your garden, the greater the chance of survival over winter. Mulch newly planted perennials immediately.
• Keep vegetables picked so the plants will keep producing. Avoid spraying strong insecticides or fungicides on food products.
• During the first week of August, plant short-season snap beans, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower, carrots, mustard greens, spinach and radishes for fall harvesting. Lettuces, mesclun mixes and greens can also be planted this month.
• Annual white grub damage will begin to show up this month as browned-out areas of turf that pull back easily "like a carpet." Grubs chew grass roots, resulting in turf that lifts up. Minor damage is usually not cause for treatment. Pull back turf and count grubs (white C-shaped larvae with black heads); 10 to 12 per square foot is considered enough to treat. Try to avoid using strong insecticides if damage is light but, if necessary, treat only the affected areas rather than entire lawn.
• Water lawn as needed but, remember in times of drought or excessive heat, grass can go dormant. The grass will turn yellow but the crown of the plants will remain alive with just one-half inch of water over several weeks. Grass will green up as soon as normal rainfall returns.

September

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: School Programs, Garden Tours
• Monitor plantings to minimize damage from pests and diseases.
• Continue weeding beds and plantings.
• Water plantings as needed during times of extreme heat or drought.
• September is a good time to begin a compost pile. Begin to layer grass clippings, dried leaves, soil, a handful of fertilizer and a little moisture.
• Divide and move perennials, working in compost, bone meal and soil amendments.
• Transplant/divide daylily, peony and iris, amending soil with bone meal, early this month. Water well to encourage healthy root development. Peonies should be planted so that the buds or eyes are no deeper than 2 inches below soil level. If planted too deeply, they will fail to flower.
• Toward the end of the month, start planting bulbs, using bone meal or bulb food. Mulch area after planting. If rodents, deer or rabbits have been a problem in the past, consider planting varieties of the following pest-resistant bulbs: ornamental onion, grape hyacinth, fritillary, narcissus, windflower, winter aconite.
• Houseplants that have summered outside should be monitored in the event of a premature frost. Also, check for any sign of insect or disease before bringing them indoors; they can be treated with a granular systemic insecticide. Gradually reintroduce these plants to indoor conditions. Consider repotting and changing soil at this time. Any soilless mix from planters or containers can be composted or kept aside for one more year. If used for a second year, mix equal parts old mix with fresh soilless mix.
• Cuttings from favorite or unusual varieties of annuals such as geraniums, coleus, begonias and impatiens can be taken this month, potted up and brought inside to a south-facing window.
• Amaryllis bulbs that have summered outdoors must begin their dormant period. Stop watering at the end of summer and allow the bulb to dry out and go dormant for at least 2-3 months before repotting. Place the pot in a cool (50 degrees), dark location. In January, replacing the old soil with fresh potting mix, repot and locate the pot where it receives several hours of direct or bright indirect light each day. To best initiate growth of a flower stalk, place the pot in a warm location 70-80 degrees. Water well at planting time and sparingly till the leaves or buds start to emerge.
• Continue to harvest vegetables as they ripen. Warm-season crops like peppers and tomatoes must be picked as soon as possible. If an early frost threatens, cover these plants with baskets or light blankets. Begin to harvest late-season squash and early pumpkins. Full-sized pumpkins need to remain on the vine as long as possible to achieve their maximum size. Continue to snip herbs to use fresh, to dry or to freeze. If herbs have gone to flower or seed, discontinue harvesting, since the flavor has then left the foliage.
• Allow collards, kale and Brussels sprouts to be hit with frost before harvesting. This improves their flavor.
• Maintain good sanitation throughout the vegetable garden. Remove diseased plants immediately as well as those that have finished for the year. Compost only healthy plant material.
• Begin fall grass seeding, incorporating seed starter fertilizer. To overseed an entire lawn, consider hiring a professional or renting a slit-seeding machine that drops seed into the small slits, providing adequate soil contact with the seed. You might also consider core-aeration of lawn; it is recommended to help resolve compacted soil, heavy thatch accumulation and poor drainage.

October

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: Chrysanthemum Show, School Programs, Bus Tours, Garden Tours
• Monitor plantings to minimize damage from pests and diseases.
• Continue weeding beds and plantings.
• Transplant dormant trees and shrubs. When trees and shrubs drop their leaves or undergo color change, they are entering dormancy and will not suffer as much transplant shock when moved. Certain trees are better planted in spring, among them magnolia, redbud, Japanese maple, dogwood, and any other woody plants considered marginally hard.
• Continue planting bulbs; dig and store tender bulbs like caladium, dahlia, canna and gladiola.
• Continue to water newly planted trees and shrubs, especially evergreens, up until ground freezes. Milder temperatures can fool gardeners into thinking woody plants don’t require as much moisture in fall as they do in summer. Evergreens continue to lose moisture through their needles throughout winter and must have adequate water in their root zones to avoid winter burn or desiccated needles.
• Apply fertilizer to trees or shrubs that have not received any this year and/or have demonstrated a need, e.g., stunted growth, failure to fully flower or leaf out, undersized fruit, off-color foliage or recovery from disease.
• Cut perennials to 2-3" to clean up beds and prevent disease. Let those that provide winter interest remain until early spring. Waiting after a few heavy frosts will often eliminate much of your labor, as foliage can be gently pulled from the crown or raked off without pruning (i.e. hosta or daylily).
• Houseplants that have summered outside should be monitored in the event of a premature frost. Also, check for any sign of insect or disease before bringing them indoors; they can be treated with a granular systemic insecticide. Gradually reintroduce these plants to indoor conditions. Consider repotting and changing soil at this time. Any soilless mix from planters or containers can be composted or kept aside for one more year. If used for a second year, mix equal parts old mix with fresh soilless mix. Protect valued flowers and vegetables against early frost; cover tender plants from light freezes at night by covering them with sheets, plastic, buckets or bushel baskets.
• Continue to harvest vegetables. If hard frost threatens, pick all tomatoes, including the unripe ones and store in cardboard boxes or paper bags in basement. Apply heavy mulch over leeks, carrots, beets and turnips to continue harvest into early winter. Cut back any remaining herbs and bring indoors to use fresh or dry.
• After a killing frost, remove annual plant material from garden and add to compost heap. Rake up leaves, grass clippings and debris for the compost pile. Keep your compost pile active by adding layers of green material (grass clippings and frost-killed vegetables, annuals, perennials), brown dried material (fallen leaves, shredded twigs, dried grasses), with small amounts of soil, fertilizer and moisture. Turn regularly. Keep diseased material out of pile.
• Apply fall lawn fertilizer or winterizer at end of month and continue to mow lawns at 2-1/2 inch to 3 inches.
• Drain and store hoses, sprinklers, etc.
• Vulnerable to deer damage and sun scald, consider wrapping young tree trunks with protective wrap and remove the wrap in spring.

November

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: Poinsettia Show, Candlelight Walks, School Programs, Bus Tours, Garden Tours
• Monitor plantings to minimize damage from pests and diseases.
• Continue to plant dormant trees and shrubs.
• If rabbits, rodents or deer have been a problem in past winters, take precautions now. Protect shade trees, ornamentals and fruit trees from trunk damage with tree wrap or tree guards. It may be necessary to protect shrubs with wire fencing.
• Water and mulch evergreens. Spray sensitive evergreens, especially broadleaf evergreens, with anti-desiccant to prevent winter burn.
• Protect roses by mounding soil or hardwood mulch over grafts.
• Prune heavy bleeding trees like walnut, maple and birch as they go dormant.
• Mulch perennial beds with hardwood mulch or compost.
• Continue cutting perennials to 2-3", letting those that provide winter interest remain until early spring.
• Continue planting spring bulbs. Fertilize with bulb food or bone meal. Pot bulbs for inside forcing.
• After a killing frost, remove annual plant material from garden and add to compost heap.
• Lower mower height to 1-2" setting for last cutting.
• Clean and store garden tools & lawn mower.
• Feed birds and, if possible, provide water and cover for them.

December

• Luthy Botanical Garden Events: Poinsettia Show, Candlelight Walks, Jinglin’ Jazz Concert, Kwanza Display, School Programs, Bus Tours, Garden Tours
• Monitor plants for signs of damage from animals, ice, snow or wind. Brush snow off evergreen shrubs and trees. Be careful in removing snow and ice from trees and shrubs; you may cause damage. While physical barriers of chicken wire or hardware cloth can be used to protect plants from rabbit and deer damage.
• Winter is an excellent time to prune most tees and shrubs to improve shape and vigor. Deciduous trees are easier to prune when the leaves are off and the branch structure is clearly visible.
• Continue to keep the garden tidy by removing any broken or fallen branches from the yard. If small plants have heaved out of the ground, gently press them back with your hands.
• Minimize the use of salt by using sand or ashes and keep salt away from planting beds.
• Order seed, bulb and nursery catalogs to assist in planning your garden for the upcoming year.
• Recycle your Christmas tree. Use boughs and greens as a mulch for evergreen or shallow rooted perennials. Decorate it with bird seed and suet ornaments for winter birds or place it near a birdfeeder as a windbreak.
• Revise garden and perennial border layouts.
• Feed birds and, if possible, provide water and cover for them.

Trees, especially in urban/suburban settings, make important contributions to society. They have environmental, social, aesthetic and economic values. Trees are major capital assets in cities across the United States. Just as streets, sidewalks, public buildings and recreational facilities are a part of a community's infrastructure, so are trees. It is important to remember that those trees and, collectively, the urban forest are important assets that require care and maintenance the same as other public property. Trees are on the job 24 hours every day working for all of us to improve our environment and quality of life.

Trees reduce air pollution by absorbing gaseous pollutants and filtering dust, ash and smoke. For instance they absorb CO2 and other dangerous gasses and, in turn, replenish the atmosphere with oxygen. By helping to settle out, trap and hold particle pollutants (dust, ash, pollen and smoke) that can damage human lungs, they provide incredible health benefits. A dense grove of trees about 50 feet wide reduces apparent loudness of noise by as much as 50 percent.

Trees buffer glare caused by lights and the sun, provide wind protection and cool the air. Trees provide a cooling effect sorely needed in urban areas where urban temperatures average seven to nine degrees higher than surrounding areas because of buildings and paving. With properly placed trees, homeowners can attain a savings up to 58 percent on their daytime air conditioning, while a windbreak of trees and shrubs, in rural or suburban settings, can save as much as 20 to 40 percent in energy costs. If applied nationwide to buildings not now benefiting from trees, we could reduce our nation’s consumption of oil by 500,000 barrels of oil/day, a huge step toward a healthy environment and energy independence. Additionally, one benefits economically with lower energy usage in this era of ever-increasing energy costs.

Trees provide habitat for wildlife, bringing birds, mammals and insects to the garden. This has the potential to strengthen the ecosystem by enhancing populations and providing diversity.

Trees certainly improve the quality of our lives, and there can be no disputing the beauty trees bring to our lives. Take a moment to consider their brilliant colors in fall, the sight of Waxwings dining on the jeweled fruit of the hawthorn or the weathered character of a centuries-old Bur Oak. The presence of trees reduces stress, and trees have long been seen to benefit the health and well being of urban dwellers. The aesthetic value of urban forests and street trees is difficult to measure, but trees have been found to increase the value of property. The value of a lot with trees averages five to seven percent higher than a lot without trees. The increase in value can be as much as 20 percent, and lots with trees often sell faster than lots without them.

Runoff and erosion from storms is reduced because leaves slow water allowing it to soak into the soil. This reduces runoff by about seven percent and reduces the need for erosion control structures. Smaller drainage pipes may be sufficient, thus saving money on materials, installation, and maintenance. Additionally, less sediment and pollution collects in stream bottoms and flows into the Illinois River.

I have included a list of trees considered dependable for a broad range of conditions, but specifically in difficult urban settings. I hope you will brighten our future and consider planting a few trees. See you in the garden.

“I think that I shall never see
A poem lovely as a tree.”
Alfred Joyce Kilmer, 1913

Urban Trees with a Height of 30 Feet or Less
Hedge Maple, Acer campestre
Amur Maple, Acer ginnala
Serviceberry, Amelanchier laevis 'Cumulus'
Serviceberry, Amelanchier x grandiflora 'AutumnBrilliance'
American Hornbeam, Carpinus caroliniana
Washington Hawthorn, Crataegus phaenopyrum
Hawthorn, Crataegus viridis 'Winter King’
Goldenrain Tree, Koelreuteria paniculata
Star Magnolia, Magnolia stellata
Crabapple, Malus 'Donald Wyman,' 'Prairie Fire,' 'Snowdrift'
Redbud Crabapple, Malus x zumi 'Calocarpa'
Japanese Tree Lilac, Syringa reticulata

Urban Trees with a Height of 30 Feet or Greater
Autumn Blaze Freeman Maple, Acer x freemanii 'Jeffersred'
Common Alder, Alnus glutinosa
River Birch, Betula nigra 'Heritage'
Hackberry, Celtis occidentalis
Katsura Tree, Cercidiphyllum japonicum
Blue Ash, Fraxinus quadrangulata
Gingko, Gingko biloba
Honeylocust, Gleditsia triacanthos 'Skycole' or 'Shademaster'
Kentucky Coffeetree, Gymnocladus dioicus
Tuliptree, Liriodendron tulipifera
Hophornbeam, Ostrya virginiana
Flowering Pear, Pyrus calleryana 'Aristocrat' or 'Autumn Blaze'
Swamp White, Oak, Quercus bicolor
Shingle Oak, Quercus imbricaria
Bur Oak, Quercus macrocarpa
Chinkapin Oak, Quercus meuhllenbergii
Red Oak, Quercus rubra
American Linden, Tilia americana
Littleleaf Linden, Tilia cordata
Silver Linden, Tilia tomentosa
Lacebark Elm, Ulmus parvifolia
Hybrid Elm, Ulmus x 'Pioneer' or 'Homestead'
Japanese Zelkova, Zelkova serrata

General Information

University of Illinois Extension Horticulture:
http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/state/hort.html

University of Illinois Hort Corner: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/hort/

Missouri Botanical Garden:
http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Merit.asp

Hosta Information

Hosta identification:  http://giboshi.com/

Hosta photos:  http://www.hostalibrary.org/

Central Illinois Hosta Society:   http://www.cihshostaclub.org/

Botanical Gardens & Conservatories

Missouri Botanical Garden:   http://www.mobot.org/

Chicago Botanic Garden:   http://www.chicago-botanic.org/

Garfield Park Conservatory:   http://www.garfield-conservatory.org/

Vegetables
http://www.seedsavers.org/